Not many designers have been able to persuade NYFW spectators to journey to the depths of Queens — specifically, Corona, which is a lengthy train ride of about an hour from Manhattan — for a fashion presentation. Thus, it is remarkable that Luar attracted over 200 attendees to undertake the lengthy trip for its Spring 2027 showcase.
Upon arriving at the Queens Museum, the venue for the show, guests entered a vast park where the Unisphere — a globe weighing 350 tons and measuring 120 feet in diameter — was the focal point. Given the theme, it was an appropriate venue for the showcase: This season, designer Raul Lopez drew inspiration from Christopher Street and Christopher Columbus (hence the globe).
“[This collection] traverses two Christophers,” the show notes stated. “One is Christopher Street, where I matured in New York. A street of collision: nightlife and solitude, queer heritage and street resilience, early-2000s masculinity codes, indulgence and transformation…The other is Christopher Columbus, not as a myth, but as a rupture. The journeys of Christopher Columbus symbolize a global act of naming and appropriation, rewriting territories, bodies, and origins through imposed lexicon.” The autumn lineup aims to investigate the conflict between these two legacies: “the street and the empire,” the notes elaborated.
An hour and five minutes post the scheduled start time, the initial looks graced the runway. The starting pieces of the collection include neutrally colored tailoring infused with elements of 15th- and 16th-century attire, such as bloomers, ruffled hems, and feathered hats. Subsequently, the lineup transitions into a more modern aesthetic, featuring vibrant colors, striking prints, and unconventional silhouettes.
“What occurs when early-modern garments interact with early-2000s New York streetwear principles?” the show notes inquire. “What transpires when identity refuses to conform within the confines assigned to it?” The response, based on Luar’s presentation, remains somewhat ambiguous and unclear. (Considering Lopez also opted not to be interviewed by Fashionista, there was limited opportunity to explore beyond what the show notes conveyed.)
Despite the convoluted explanation in the show notes, the overall collection left me uncertain regarding the designer’s intended message. Are the garments serving as a commentary on rejecting colonialism in favor of self-realization? On one side, it appeared Lopez’s goal was to convey a theme centered around reclamation or “a refusal to be singular,” as indicated by the show notes. However, on the other side, the collection is also meant to address “existing between codes: fashion and street, luxury and survival, visibility and erasure. So, are we diverging from these codes or merely adjusting to them?
Although the collection is exquisitely crafted (stunning gowns, beautiful gowns), the messaging could benefit from some refinement.
Ahead, view every look from Luar’s Spring 2027 collection.
